Steering Shaft Upgrade
Keep Improving The Steering
So I finally found a nice junkyard around which had a nice Cherokee with steering box already detached. It was a relatively simple procedure to remove the steering shaft with only 2-bolts holding it on. It would have been simpler if the steering wheel wasn’t locked in place, but junkers can’t be choosers.
The Jeep shaft has two U-Joints rather than the infamous Rag-Joint GM likes to use. Buying a replacement rag-joint is like $40-$50, but this shaft was only $18, and will never need to be replaced. Bonus.
Freshly Procured Junk Parts
As an alternative to the ‘97 Astro Van shaft, this method requires no grinding or cutting. Supposedly, once the epoxy holding the middle together melts away, it becomes a direct fit. Sadly, the junkyard did not have the appropriate Astro Van, so I was unable to acquire a replacement steering bearing for the 3rd-Gen steering bushing. Luckily, I think I found a reproduction bearing on Amazon. I’ll find out if its good or not when I try to assemble all this mess in the next few weeks.
Comments
I thought from the factory the steering was great in third gen F-Bodies. I drove an 86 Camaro and it was a very smooth, responsive steering car, wondering why you switched to the Cherokee shaft? I own a 84 Z28 but it’s a roller so I haven’t driven it yet to see how the steering is.
The main problem with the F-Body steering is the Rag Joint. Where the Cherokee shaft has a U-Joint on either end, the GM shaft has a ball joint on the top end, and a rag joint on the bottom. The rag joint is essentially a rubber ring which transmits the steering force to and from the steering box. Because it is rubber, it wears out and causes slop in the system. It can be replaced, but will eventually cause more slop. By going to the double U-Joint, I never have to worry about the shaft causing slop in the system, and will never have to replace the rag-joint.