Common SN95 Problems List (and general things to look out for)
Every older car has it’s problems. Here are some common things to look out for on the SN95s:
- Crystal White paint peeling, highly likely to happen.
Solution: Extreme care, but likely repainting.
2.Quad Shocks rubbing. Caused by changes to suspension such as lowering (more than 1.75”?) or large rear tires.
Solution: Flipping or removing quad shocks
E- Brake cable rubbing driveshaft and like to rust
Can be caused from worn rear control arm bushingInside fan only blows out defroster vents
Usually caused from broken vacuum line along firewall.Throw Out Bearing (TOB).
Solution: Replace, preferably with an upgraded one.Aftermarket short throw shifter stoppers pushing out of gear.
Solution: Adjust stoppers to correct position and tighten.Lose ground or blown rear amp on radio, specifically the Mach 460 system
Odometer gear breaking
Solution: can try a upgraded aftermarket one, but its commonly just replaced.Clutch Cable
Solution: Replace with a stock cable (maximum motorsports offers a good stock one). DO NOT GET AN AFTERMARKET CABLE! The majority of them are garbage and will cause problems. Can use an aftermarket adjuster with stock cable with no problems.Door seals, will need to be replaced eventually
- Power seats, motor and shaft like to break.
Solution: Fix or replace. Or switch to manual rack. Trunk lock failure
Bad Window Motors
- Gas tank filler tube grommet failure
- Third brake lights can oxidize and become hazy
- Leaky coolant expansion tanks
- Door handles can pull off easily sometimes
- Interior door cups get pulled off
- Radiator change in 1996, different than 94/95 and 97/98
- Hood recall
- A/C condenser recall
- Heater or A/C only works on 1 setting
Solution: Replace blower resistor
- Gauges not very accurate. The gauges are only able to give an “okay” or “bad” reading.
So don’t be alarmed if temperature is high on the “NORMAL”, anywhere in the normal range is okay. Use your own judgement if car is overheating or not.
- Front ball joints/inner/outer tie rods will need replacing
- Starter solenoid corrodes
- Alternators go bad from time to time
- AC switch fails
- Auto Trans, good idea to change fluid 30-40k and add trans cooler
- Rubber Bushings, will need to be replaced eventually.
- Replace air blower unit when the unit starts to squeak.
The Stalk on the steering wheel eventually fails
Keep a close eye on your OEM steel brake lines for rust
Rear Main Seal will likely need to be replaced
High pressure line on power steering pump leaks, O ring goes bad.
Comments
4v powered cars very common to have head tick, bad lash adjusters, and spun rod bearings
Best post ever. So accurate for my 95
Ford or Ford Racing throw out bearings are going to be the best quality.
You nailed it on the clutch cables, but a lot of quadrant designs bend the cable too much at the end. I wore through a cheapo cable AND a Ford one before ditching my triple-hood quadrant. Maximum Motorsports’s is radiused properly
One thing to note is the disaster that is the 4 link rear suspension. Ford designed it in 1979, its about the same as what the 68 Chevelle was using. The geometry is intentionally conflicting so that bushing bind keeps the axle centered. Because of this play, rubber upper control arm bushings are mandatory. You can do poly everywhere else, but do not try to grab aftermarket upper control arms with poly bushings, they don’t have the required play and can make the car less stable. Best fixes are a Panhard bar, a panhard bar and torque arm (eliminates upper control arms) or the bolt-in cobra IRS swap. Yes, bolt in. The rear subframe is dimensionally identical from 19-04, and the 99-04 IRS bolts into any of them after drilling two holes