VANOS rebuilt!

Almost gold.

The thing is, I needed to swap the radiator, but VANOS were just in the vicinity and I had a seal and rattle kit ready. It’s a beautiful thing when the size of the engine forces you to adapt the plans for the better.

Old radiator goes out

The radiator was, strictly speaking, due to be changed already when I bought the car. It wasn’t curved then as it is in the picture above, therefore it wasn’t a priority. It didn’t leak, it cooled the liquid, everything was OK.

Fortunately for me, this spring was cool in Germany. I really doubt the radiator would survive higher air temperatures due to higher pressure build-up inside of it.

As one can see in the picture above, the front side of the cooler was also covered in dirt. Other than that, the A/C radiator was also cleaned in the process, so the A/C is cooling even better now.

Shiny!

Nissens radiators are known to be dependable allies and are OEM-quality parts. The prices are not crazy high either.

One can see it’s pretty cosy at the front without the tubing and fan. In this situation I would be crazy not to rebuild the VANOS unit since it is already accessible.

I must stress, I did not have any idling RPM problems or any power loss on the car, and as such the VANOS did not needed to be rebuilt. The motor had around 225k km (140k miles) on the day of the service.

To my amazement, the job was done with absolutetly no problems! I was astonished how easy it actually is. It did not look complicated in the how-tos, but that easy, it just blew my mind.

The hardest part for rebuilidng the VANOS is to remove the old seals.

Old seals, although obivously sealing perfectly, were causing some trouble removing. Watch out when removing the VANOS inside cover on the intake side, there is a spring underneath and will make a rocket out of your screws and cover.

After that it is pretty straightforward. One should really be careful where to cut and watch out not to damage the inside of the sealing grooves. The slight damage that can be seen on the outside of the VANOS piston does not pose a problem, as long as you don’t cut deep. You can see slight marks from cutting seals on the piston to the right on the picture below.

Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures of the VANOS rattle ring replacement, but there is a high quality how-to on the Internet and there is no problem about it. Just clean everything thoroughly and put back together in the exact order, of course, with the new ring.

VANOS piston to the right

Every seal groove accomodates two seals, first going in is the rubber seal and after it the teflon one. The teflon one can be pretty hard to stretch over the piston to fit in the groove. Here, use hot water and dip the teflon seals for a few seconds to give them a bit of a stretch. Still, when pulling the seal over the piston, it won’t just slide on like the rubber one does.

I found the best way of setting them in place is not to push the seal with your thumbs, but to pull the seal towards yourself with fingernails (not using thumbs). That way the seal will enter the seal groove on the piston more easily.

The seals need to be “accomodated” to the cylinder bore, on both sides. For that, one needs to slide the piston into the VANOS body at a slight angle and close the angle-gap fully, push the piston all the way in, push it half way out, and let it sit for at least 30secs. Then, the pistons shall be taken out and the procedure repeated for the covers (smaller diameter seals). After that, put VANOS unit back together.

VANOS unit: solenoids, pistons and covers can be all seen

VANOS unit can now be placed back where it belongs, a new gasket between the block and the unit itself, few screws tightened to tolerances and voila.
While at it, the camshaft cover gasket and seals were also changed, the contact surfaces cleaned before that.

I also changed the brake lines for the goodridge ones and of course did a braking fluid swap. Although goodridge lines are a high quality product, I don’t understand why the rubber grommets are too small. They simply jump out of the grommet hole, so I had to improvize.

New brake lines

I have also let the wheel alignment to be done on the car, the rear wheels were slight out of tolerance and I could notice the uneven wear on the new tires. The cabin and intake air filters, as well as new oil and oil filter are standard procedure, but also worth mentioning.

So, a few more pics from different angles can be found just underneath.

DISCLAMER: this is not meant to be a how-to guide, nor does it provide sufficient information and details to make any of the service work described. I am not to be held responsible in case of any type of injury or even death.

Have a nice day!

Comments

llP VeIoclty

Great writeup! It was a very interesting read.

04/27/2017 - 12:21 |
1 | 0

Thank You sir! Hoped it will be interesting ;)

04/29/2017 - 09:14 |
0 | 0
SinisterE46

This post is golden!

04/27/2017 - 16:24 |
1 | 0

I see what you did there! =)

04/29/2017 - 09:14 |
1 | 0
Anonymous

DO NOT RELY ON THE FACTORY TEMP GAUGE! I recommend this to everybody with a BMW inline6. Push and hold the reset stock on your dash (left hand side inside your instrument cluster) until it changes to TEST__01. Click through using the same button until you reach 19. Wait till it goes from _oN to _oFF. Then press again. The menu has been unlocked and now click your way through up to 7. THIS IS YOUR COOLANT TEMPERATURE in °C. NOTHING ELSE GIVES YOU THIS INFORMATION. The gauge on the dash will show warm-middle position as soon as 60°C, which definitely is not temperature at which you should lean on your engine. It also stays in the middle until 110°C, at which point some radiator hoses and clamps, and, mainly the coolant tank tend to break leading to catastrophic failuer including warped head, engine block cracks and so on. The temp gauge is not marked in degrees. It barely shows three areas. Cold, normal, and TOO LATE. I drive with the test menu on all the time. The few clicks after each start won’t kill me and it takes me enough time to get the oil flowing before I set off. Normal coolant temp when not engine-braking is 88-96°C on any M54 BMW engine. If yours stays higher or lower, either your thermostat is gone or your coolant pump is giving up the ghost. You ask me how did I find learn this? BMW dealership in Germany put my new idlers and belt tensioner in. Before giving the car back to me, the dealership technician forgot to plug the electric ventilator/fan connector back into the slot in the fan shroud. A week later I have gotten into a traffic jam and almost immediately, my coolant tank blew spewing boiling water and steam all over the engine bay. I immediately turned the engine off, but I managed to notice, the TEMPERATURE GAUGE WAS PINNED IN THE MIDDLE SHOWING NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE. I hate this no-maitennance solution on my car. The gauge is set up not to worry the driver, so it does show no deviation from the middle position even if you are already boiling. Long story short, the dealership bit the bullet, fixed my 325ci and they even offered an X1 for the week and they agreed to guarantee my engine for half a year with two free of charge pressure leak tests of the cooling system. The car is ok and has happily driven 50.000 km since then.

04/27/2017 - 22:11 |
0 | 0
LukaTheGarlic

In reply to by Anonymous (not verified)

No need to live in fear of your coolant temperature. Either way, when the failure occurs, the temperature in the OBD reading AND the gauge will rise rapidly. If your eyes are not pinned on the gauge/OBD screen, you have no big usage in checking the value occasionally. You must have a very quick reaction time to turn the engine off when it occurs, though.

When driving in winter, the better sign of cooling system failure is your cabin blower temperature. If the air without A/C on doesn’t come inside heated up after 5 minutes of driving, be very aware, you could have a potential leak and imminent failure can be expected. This can be used when it’s warmer outside, but to drivers reduced comfort when it starts heating up.

Happened to me after 3 months of owning the car.

If your gauge was not faulty, e.g. was in the blue when turning on the engine and then coming up to operating temperature, the sensor and the reading was fine. That means your coolant, although it was boiling, still was in the engine and was cool enough. I would say, nice save you had there! I have noticed mine just as it hit the red mark and lit it up. This is also something people don’t know, when the gauge needle reaches red zone, the LED behind it will shine bright as a fog light, you really cannot miss it, and if you react instantly turning off the engine, there will be no damage to the engine.

Moral of the story: keep your car regulary serviced and don’t wait until something breaks down to change it. My advice is to set the milestones for the parts, for instance, for the cooling system overhaul I am setting it for every 120k-150k km (85-95k miles).
Watercooling system overhaul is a must from my point of view for every car with 150k km and/or 10 years from the last overhaul. That means, almost any of the available E46 today will give you a fear of cooling system failure. Better do it sooner than later.

Also, please use some row spacing in your text, especially when it is so long.

04/29/2017 - 09:09 |
1 | 0

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