Just fase forward to 11:15 to hear all you need to know about this video.
You’re the real MVP
Let’s also keep in mind that just because the brakes got a little hotter during his less realistic driving tests, doesn’t mean the brakes were performing worse. Usually, the benefit of performance brakes is they can get very hot with little to no change in braking performance. As long as you can maintain good hydraulic pressure and a constant coefficient of friction, your brakes can get really hot and still work well.
That change in use according to heat you are referring to is in the brake pads not the rotors. But you are correct. Racing pads are meant to be used at a higher average temperature and are not usable for the street driving
There was no change to the brakes. The calipers were what was being tested and what got hotter which is not ideal in any scenario. Again, as he mentioned towards the end of the video the new brakes are lighter and they have been tested more effective on the track than the stock ones, but you typically want the calipers to be as cool as possible so they transfer less heat onto the pads as well
So basically, these rotors are a waste of money for a daily driven car.
All “racing” rotors are useless for daily driving. Even stock rotors can yield good performance for Autocross events.
Depends on how you drive your daily driver.
rims also help with the cooling once the have got over 500º and the contact surface must be improved for heat transfer in racing aplicacions
Why are you looking at heating rates? That will mostly be impacted upon the energy balance between thermal input and thermal output.
You should’ve heated them up to the same temp, and logged the cooling rates while traveling at the same speed.
It’s important to have your brakes cooled down before the next braking zone, not the absolute temp after braking.
Has he thought that maybe they get hotter because maybe those are meant for track, not the daily driver. They HELP THE CAR STOP FASTER THATS WHY THEY GET HOTTER.
Interesting your veins go that direction. The manufacturer I got my drill/slot from recommended the opposite. I wouldn’t give them up for anything, the brakes are much more responsive with almost no fade. YYMV of course, and they haven’t cracked in almost a decade, but I’m keeping an eye out expecting them to do so eventually.
Another factor is the new pads and rotors would likely grab better (even only minutely, Which would in effect change the brake bias making the front brakes do more of the slowing versus the stock and warn in setup would have a little little bit more braking done by the rear wheels. I’d say temperature probing the rear brakes would have added more data to the conversation,
At lower speeds, slotted rotors will perform similar to stock rotors… The advantage of slotted rotors is that they keep the pads cooler, and the cooldown time for the rotor is reduced. I.E., during aggressive driving, the brakes will cool down much quicker, leading to less brake fade.
Under normal driving, this isn’t going to be noticeable. And slotted rotors will heat up to normal operating temperature at roughly the same rate as standard rotors. So, basically, this video was a flawed test which doesn’t test the rotors during their intended purpose (cooling the brakes faster). A better test would be to heat each rotor up to a similar temperature, then speed back up, and coast to a stop (or use the e-brake to slow down so the fronts aren’t used)… then, see which rotor is COOLER.
The aftermarket brakes were designed to scoop air with the gaps(?) on the braking surface. So they cooldown best when wheels are spinning.
Lots of talk about cooling and temperature but grooved rotors have one significant improvement over plain rotors in wet weather. Here in the Pacific NorthWet the grooves allow steam created during braking to instantly vent and therefore minimize pad float. Most pads have a cross-cut groove anyway but the grooved rotor helps too. Grooved are more effective at it than cross-drilled as well.
Comments
Just fase forward to 11:15 to hear all you need to know about this video.
You’re the real MVP
Let’s also keep in mind that just because the brakes got a little hotter during his less realistic driving tests, doesn’t mean the brakes were performing worse. Usually, the benefit of performance brakes is they can get very hot with little to no change in braking performance. As long as you can maintain good hydraulic pressure and a constant coefficient of friction, your brakes can get really hot and still work well.
That change in use according to heat you are referring to is in the brake pads not the rotors. But you are correct. Racing pads are meant to be used at a higher average temperature and are not usable for the street driving
There was no change to the brakes. The calipers were what was being tested and what got hotter which is not ideal in any scenario. Again, as he mentioned towards the end of the video the new brakes are lighter and they have been tested more effective on the track than the stock ones, but you typically want the calipers to be as cool as possible so they transfer less heat onto the pads as well
So basically, these rotors are a waste of money for a daily driven car.
All “racing” rotors are useless for daily driving. Even stock rotors can yield good performance for Autocross events.
Depends on how you drive your daily driver.
rims also help with the cooling once the have got over 500º and the contact surface must be improved for heat transfer in racing aplicacions
Why are you looking at heating rates? That will mostly be impacted upon the energy balance between thermal input and thermal output.
You should’ve heated them up to the same temp, and logged the cooling rates while traveling at the same speed.
It’s important to have your brakes cooled down before the next braking zone, not the absolute temp after braking.
Has he thought that maybe they get hotter because maybe those are meant for track, not the daily driver. They HELP THE CAR STOP FASTER THATS WHY THEY GET HOTTER.
Interesting your veins go that direction. The manufacturer I got my drill/slot from recommended the opposite. I wouldn’t give them up for anything, the brakes are much more responsive with almost no fade. YYMV of course, and they haven’t cracked in almost a decade, but I’m keeping an eye out expecting them to do so eventually.
Another factor is the new pads and rotors would likely grab better (even only minutely, Which would in effect change the brake bias making the front brakes do more of the slowing versus the stock and warn in setup would have a little little bit more braking done by the rear wheels. I’d say temperature probing the rear brakes would have added more data to the conversation,
At lower speeds, slotted rotors will perform similar to stock rotors… The advantage of slotted rotors is that they keep the pads cooler, and the cooldown time for the rotor is reduced. I.E., during aggressive driving, the brakes will cool down much quicker, leading to less brake fade.
Under normal driving, this isn’t going to be noticeable. And slotted rotors will heat up to normal operating temperature at roughly the same rate as standard rotors. So, basically, this video was a flawed test which doesn’t test the rotors during their intended purpose (cooling the brakes faster). A better test would be to heat each rotor up to a similar temperature, then speed back up, and coast to a stop (or use the e-brake to slow down so the fronts aren’t used)… then, see which rotor is COOLER.
The aftermarket brakes were designed to scoop air with the gaps(?) on the braking surface. So they cooldown best when wheels are spinning.
Lots of talk about cooling and temperature but grooved rotors have one significant improvement over plain rotors in wet weather. Here in the Pacific NorthWet the grooves allow steam created during braking to instantly vent and therefore minimize pad float. Most pads have a cross-cut groove anyway but the grooved rotor helps too. Grooved are more effective at it than cross-drilled as well.
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